Crown Reduction is a type of tree work where the whole tree is shaped and usually reduced in height as well as all the sides to create a smaller tree without any detrimental effect to the tree in its future life. The picture shows a Salix Babylonica (Weeping Willow) and has been thinned out as well as having a 30% Crown Reduction and as you can see the tree’s shape is round with the middle of the tree being the highest point. No tree should ever be left with a flat top or the middle of the tree being lower than the sides after any works have been carried out and apart from being unpleasing to the eye it can have a detrimental effect on how the tree regrows as a flat top is an unnatural shape for a tree.
Pollarding is where the whole tree is shaped by pruning back to the same point of growth on the biggest/main branches. The result is a very heavy type of reduction on the tree and there will be no growth left on any part of the tree. Due to the hard amount of pruning that is involved in doing this type of work it is not suitable for all types of trees but where appropriate it can help to manage fast growing trees in small spaces and is a good alternative to “Felling The Tree To Ground Level”. The pictures show a Salix Babylonica (Weeping Willow) in the process of being Pollarded.
Tree Felling is where the whole tree is either dismantled in small sections and lowered with ropes and pulleys to the ground or straight felled if there is the space for the whole tree to land in. Right: This picture shows the straight felling of a Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) tree using the only Stihl MS880 Magnum in the UK with a total length of 8ft !!! Left: This picture shows a Acer Pseudoplatanus (Sycamore) tree being dismantled in small pieces and lowered to the ground due to the small space in which the tree had been left to grow for many years.
Fruit Tree Pruning
Fruit tree pruning controls growth, removes dead or diseased wood, and stimulates the formation of flowers and fruit buds.
Fruit Tree Pruning involves cutting branches back, sometimes removing smaller limbs entirely, and may also mean removal of young shoots, buds, leaves, etc.
Careful attention to pruning and training young trees affects their later productivity and longevity.
Good pruning and training can also prevent later injury from weak crotches or forks (where a tree trunk splits into two or more branches) that break from the weight of fruit, snow, or ice on the branches.
Free-standing fruit trees or bush trees, such as those grown in an orchard should be pruned when they’re dormant, in winter.
Trained trees, such as espaliers, cordons, pyramids and fans should be pruned in late August or early September.
In order to keep them dense and compact, established hedges require regular trimming. Formal hedges may require more frequent trimming than informal hedges.
New hedges need formative pruning for the first couple of years after planting. This is usually carried out during winter or spring, following this, maintenance trimming is usually carried out once a year for informal hedges and twice a year for formal hedges.
Some formal hedges may need three cuts a year.
Maintenance trimming is generally carried out between spring and summer.